Sunday, 24 March 2019
Scratch Built Normandy Farm
More years ago than I care to think about, I remember buying my first ever Mick Sewell building. Mick had been on the "Rapid Fire" scene as it were for a while, along with Colin Rumford, Richard Marsh and Tony Chadburn of Raventhorpe Miniatures. Their demo games and later Rapid Fire supplements were an early and enduring inspiration for me to try and improve my own modelling and painting skills, especially in the field of 20mm WWII. After Mick sadly retired from model making, I was fortunate enough to get a one-to-one tutorial from the master himself on how he did things. I have been trying ever since, with varying degrees of success, to produce buildings (and other terrain), that I would be happy to put out on the table. For a while I was able to make and sell quite a few pieces, but the pressure of my day job - figure painting - always got in the way. I do enjoy making terrain and it is a pleasant change from the figures, so I have decided that, whilst I can't take on many commissions, I could at least produce the odd piece. It is likely to be a very occasional enterprise, but as and when I can, I will put them on the blog for anyone that might be interested. If, after a while, they remain unsold, then they will go onto EBAY.
First up is a sizeable Normandy farm, around 17" x 12" It is comprised of a farmhouse a stable and smaller barn on an irregularly shaped base. In order to save time and get a better finish, the ever obliging Martin from Warbases makes the walls and internal floors, which I have designed, on his laser cutter and I add the roofs later.
The dry stone walling is made from fish tank grit from the local pet shop, layered and soaked in PVA for strength. Whilst time consuming to make, it is worth the effort, looking suitably rustic and run-down. A home made tree and vegetable patch also add a bit of character and contribute to that lived in look, as does the greenery growing up the walls.
A module of this size obviously involves a fair amount of work as well as material costs. One such as this would be around £175.00. If you are interested in this one, or something a little different, then let me know. You can contact me via the blog home page.
Wednesday, 20 March 2019
Raupenschlepper Ost
I featured a PAK 40 toting version of this vehicle in an earlier post.
http://steve-nationsinarms.blogspot.com/2017/10/raupenschlepper-with-pak40.html
These are doing duty primarily as tows or possibly as SP 20mm flak mounts. The canvas covers are removable, so they can serve for both. Another lovely kit from PSC.
Am currently trying to get my Soviet Shermans done - just need to add the stowage before painting. Getting the right shade of green is always the tricky bit for me; my other Soviet vehicles are a bit on the dark side. Am going to try something a little lighter with these lend-lease vehicles and, if it works, re-do my other vehicles as well.
Sunday, 3 February 2019
Marders
One of the most versatile boxes that PSC do, is the Panzer 38(t) and Marder variants. In this case, I built them as the later war 138 model and they will be very handy to offer a bit of A/T support to my hard-pressed German infantry. As you can see, they come with some nice looking crew figures which, with the added ammo box helps to personalise them a bit. One of the three has been held back for a Fallschirmjager crew, still to be painted, again to provide a bit of long range hitting power to my paras.
Sunday, 27 January 2019
A Quick Apology
Hi Everyone. Just a quick note to apologise for not uploading recent comments. I am supposed to get a notification every time someone posts a comment, so that I can see it, remove the bad language (only joking) and then upload it. For some reason, these notifications have not been coming through. I only found out by looking at the Comments awaiting moderation section of the blog and saw a whole load stacked up there. Don't know why that happened and have added them now. Again, my apologies - I appreciate any feedback and the effort taken to provide it. I will need to check manually in future to make sure that this doesn't happen again.
Postscript: Am still not sure that all is well. If you have sent a comment and it hasn't appeared, please let me know at steveshann@blueyonder.co.uk Thanks.
Monday, 21 January 2019
Tiger Tiger.
Here is a bit of heavy support for my late war Germans - a couple of Italeri "Quick Builds". They are actually quite nice models, not massive amounts of detail but nice enough for wargaming purposes.
I have also added a Pegasus King Tiger. I must admit I prefer it to the Ready to Roll versions I have at the moment and may well get a couple more. The smooth finish on these vehicles works very nicely with the airbrush. The crewman is, I think, from AB.
I am really hoping to crack on with my WWII collection and the terrain (boards and drop on stuff) over the next few months and hopefully post some proper after action reports to show the rules in action. As always, all comments/suggestions are welcome.
Thursday, 10 January 2019
Crewed-up Hanomags
Have finally managed to get the vehicle crews done for my 1st (armoured) battalion FBB. As I alluded to in an earlier post, it seems like wasted work in some ways, as they have no effect on the game. Even so, really glad I made the effort as they look so much better crewed up, rather than empty. First up are the basic infantry carriers with the accompanying crew and stowage that make the PSC boxes so attractive. As you can see from these two examples, there is quite a bit of scope for "individualising" the standard vehicle. Three to a box for less that £20, you really can't go wrong.
Next are two of the support options: a 75mm Infantry gun armed "Stummel" and the HQ variant with the 37mm A/T gun. Most of the crews in this case are AB, which match the seated and standing PSC crew really nicely. The gunner in the "Stummel" is one of the very nice sets done by Adler Miniatures - better known for their 6mm figures.
Finally there are a couple of shots of the engineer variant with attached assault bridges. The Armoured battalion did include an engineer company, so these could prove useful.
All in all, this is a very powerful unit, armoured and well equipped. In the Ardennes and against the Soviets, it should prove a handful in action.
Please feel free to comment on anything on the blog - always useful to get some feedback. Cheers and a Happy New Year. Steve.
Thursday, 6 December 2018
The Road to Berlin: Command and Control and Troop Quality
These two factors more than any others, led me to write these rules. Much as I enjoyed Rapid Fire - and I did, neither of these considerations bear heavily on them. Basically I wanted a card-driven set of rules that would allow me to reflect and vary the levels of command and control ability of the two forces and where troop quality would not just be a question of +1 for elite and -1 for militia. They also had to be both playable and fun.
Firstly, command and control. This is reflected at several different levels. At the top of the list is the card deck itself. Its composition is right at the heart of the game. Better armies, that is to say armies that are better led, not necessarily composed of better troops, will have a better deck. This comes out in such things as more command and control cards, fewer lull cards and so on. Secondly is the overall army rating; this reflects the quality of the staff work as well as the experience of the higher commanders. At the start of each phase, both sides throw a d6 to see who gains the initiative - this can be very important at certain stages of the battle. To this roll is added a modifier - anything from 0 to +5. So for example on the Eastern Front in 1941, the German force might have a modified rating of anything from +3 to +5, whereas the Soviet rating is likely to be at best +1. This ensures that the Germans will win the initiative on the majority of occasions. The initiative can be used or given/forced on the enemy should you choose to do so. When a Lull card is drawn, this command initiative test is repeated: if the phasing side wins, then the only damage is a wasted card. If it loses, then the other side immediately draws an additional card from its own deck and acts on it. Again, if one side has a higher command rating than the enemy, then this will increase its chances of winning on its own Lull card and avoiding further problems, or winning on an enemy Lull card and drawing an additional, free card of its own. See the Lull card definition in my earlier post.
Each unit (usually battalion sized) also has a command rating: good, average or poor. When a unit wishes to move, the better the rating, the more "actions" they are likely to get. It varies between 0 and 3, with 2 being fairly average. An action allows the unit to move the "base move" of its particular type, for example infantry move 4" per action, whilst most tracked vehicles move 8". The better led a unit, the more movement it usually gets. There are a few modifiers, but leadership quality is the main driver here.
Armies are also allotted command groups as part of their unit structures. All will have brigade/ regimental and battalion HQ groups. Armies that are more de-centralised, such as the Germans, British and Americans will also have 2 figure company command groups. These are very useful as they can spot for integral artillery and mortars, making these assets much more flexible. The Soviets only get command groups at battalion level and above, so their options for directing supporting fire are much more limited, neatly reflecting their more centralised and generally less flexible approach. It also makes it more likely that Soviet guns and mortars will need to use direct (line of sight) fire.
Secondly, troop quality. I wanted to have a system that was fairly flexible. Rather than troops just being good, bad or indifferent, I wanted to be able to represent troops with varying characteristics, such as reluctant veterans or enthusiastic new boys. I therefore decided to give each troop type three different factors. These are:
Training: Troops are either green, trained, experienced or veteran. This is normally used when they are being fired at - green troops being easier to hit than troops that are better trained and more experienced in battle.
Motivation. Troops are rated as being either reluctant, confident or determined. This manifests itself when asking units to recover from suppression or to do something above and beyond the call of duty. Reluctant troops for example are less effective in close assault.
Morale. All troop types have a morale rating, usually between 6 (appalling) and 10 (excellent). Very rarely a rating of 11 can be given to reflect fanaticism.
This allows a wide range of options. For example, the Hitler Jugend in Normandy would be Experienced/Determined/11 - although most of the soldiers had not previously seen action, they had a leadership cadre of veterans and were well and thoroughly trained, hence the experienced, rather than trained rating. The same unit in the Ardennes six months later would be rated as Experienced/ Confident/9. A late war British infantry unit might be rated as Experienced or even Veteran, but with a reluctant motivation rating, making them a little "sticky" in combat. The permutations are, if not endless, then at least quite wide. In action you might find that many of the cobbled together late war German units will do a job for you if you put them in a good defensive position, but will struggle to deliver a strong, co-ordinated attack across open ground.
All in all this has worked well. We have found that superior troops can and do defeat equal numbers of poorer types, even when they are in good defensive positions. Troops with a "reluctant" motivation level really struggle to remove suppression, resulting in slow and uncoordinated attacks.
Anyway, there we have it. Hopefully this brief overview has explained one or two things about how the rules work and the thinking behind them. Next up will be movement.
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