Our second visit was to the battlefield of Lutzen, fought on May 2nd 1813. This time we were on our way home and having travelled from near Salzburg to here was a fair drive. As we had a restaurant booked, we only had about 90 minutes or so to have a quick look round. This time it was more of a whistle stop tour as my wife gamely drove from key point to key point whilst I leapt out of the car to take a few snaps. All a bit hectic but again well worth the effort (for me at least!!).
The starting point for any tour of the Lutzen bttlefield has to be the Monarch's Hill. I thought that the allied leaders were simply at the top of a long slope leading down to the French positions around the quadrilateral of villages that were the focus of the battle. Not so. As you can see from the first photo it is an actual mound. Another lesson that there is no substitute for walking the ground.
As is clear from the next two photos it offered a superb view of the positions of the French army.
The first village we reached was Starsiedel, which was on the French right flank, where Marshal Marmont's 6th Corps was deployed. The church here was the one I used as a reference for TM Terrain's project on my own German church.
The central "quadrilateral" of villages: Gross and Klein Gorschen, Rahna and Kaja were next on the list. Here is the church of Klein Gorschen as it would have appeared in 1813
The churchyard, surrounded by a wall on three sides and a row of houses on the fourth was the scene of terrible fighting as the village changed hands during the course of the battle.
Inside a memorial to the Hessian Leib Regiment, part of General Marchand's 39th (German) Division of Ney's 3rd Corps, which was deeply involved in the to and fro fighting, suffering heavy losses.
In Gross Gorschen a plaque giving an overall view of the fighting and some points of interest.
A memorial to the Prussian dead in the battle.
A memorial to General Scharnhorst, reformer of the Prussian army after the Jena debacle. He was wounded in the foot at Lutzen. Unfortunately complications developed and he died several weeks later.
The village of Rahna, also the scene of very heavy fighting. The solidly built houses and farms must have presented serious difficulties to an attacking force.
The smallest of all was the hamlet of Kaja. The track to it was cobbled and extremely rough - my wife had to drive at a snail's pace to spare the car's suspension!!
The village of Eisdorf was on the extreme French left and was fought over by the troops of Marshal MacDonald's 11th Corps and Russians under Eugene of Wurtemberg. The eventual French success here and a massive counter-attack in the centre by the Young Guard threatened the entire allied position and forced their retreat.



Lutzen (or Gross Gorschen as the Prussians call it), is one of the most interesting and hard-fought battles of the Napoleonic Wars in my opinion. We have fought it as a wargame several times and it is always a great punch up.
It was nice to be able to walk the ground, albeit for a short time and I would very much like to go back and take a couple of days to do it properly.
Interestingly on the very fringes of the battlefield is the village of Rocken, north-west of Starsiedel, birth and final resting place of the German philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche.
Anyway I hope you have found the last couple of posts an interesting diversion from the usual wargaming fare. Now I am back home and in the swing of things again, there will be a lot more WWII, Napoleonic, AWI and so on. I am also (finally) closing in on getting at least phase 1 of the 7YW project on the table. Bagration to Berlin is also progressing nicely, so more on that too.