Thursday, 24 September 2026

A Tale of Two Battles (1)

 

Whilst on a two week driving holiday in Europe, I managed to fit in a couple of (very) quick visits to battlefields that have always interested me. The first was the battle of Froeschwiller on August 6th 1870; we had driven all day to get there, but managed to spend a very interesting 90 minutes doing a quick tour of the central part of the battlefield around the focal points of Froeschwiller and Elsasshausen. It really is a fascinating battlefield and full of tactical interest for the Franco-Prussian enthusiast - so much so that I am hoping to go back for a week next year to do a more detailed walk over the ground with a view to doing a book on the battle.


The best vantage point was from the top of this imposing monument built in honour of the Prussian 11th Artillery Regiment in 1913. From here you get a great view over the central and southern sectors of the battlefield.

Here are three shots of the village of Froeschwiller itself. Apart from modern traffic the village looks very similar to the way it would have appeared in 1870.




The position offered fantastic observation and fields of fire to the defending French as can be seen here:



The tiny hamlet of Elsasshausen, also a focal point in the battle seemed hardly to have changed and I was surprised to see what a strongpoint it must have been. I hadn't appreciated how sharply the ground fell away from it and how difficult it must have been to attack. Walking the ground really gives you a feel for the nuances of the terrain that maps cannot hope to match.






We stayed in the small village of Morsbronn on the southern edge of the battlefield. Although only lightly held by French outposts, which quickly withdrew in the face of overwhelming numbers of Prussians, it was the scene of one of the most dramatic and tragic episodes of the day. As the French right wing was forced back, a brigade of French Cuirassiers was sent in to buy time. Charging over completely unsuitable agricultual ground, they were met by a murderous fire and swerved away, many of them riding into the streets of Morsbronn itself. Once there they found the road blocked by barricades and many of the riders were shot down by Prussian infantry in the houses and gardens. Our room overlooked the main street and may well have featured in these events as the house was in existence at the time. It was strange to think that Prussian infantry may have fired down into the struggling mass of French cavalry from that very window!

Our hotel:


Anyway, a bit of a change from the usual wargaming fare and I hope you found it of interest.


10 comments:

  1. Really interesting post, great photos. Just beginning to get into the FPW so this has been a great post for me.

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    1. Thanks Donnie. It is a fascinating period of military history that I have been reading, writing and thinking about for 50 years!!

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  2. Great photos, as you say you certainly get a feel for the ground that maps cannot portray. Thank you for sharing them.

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    1. Glad you found it of interest. Yes walking the ground gives so many insights into what happened.

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  3. Steve, very interesting. I went years ago to Wissembourg - not much left of that battlefield.

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    1. Was hoping to pop in there for a day next year just to have a look round. I believe Wissembourg is a nice place in any event?

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  4. Top photos Steve. The buildings of the town look lovely and your battlefield photos achieved the tricky task of showing what you saw with the eye.
    Best wishes, James

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  5. Thanks James. Yes, terrain that appears "flat" on a map can be anything but on the ground.

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  6. Nice post Steve. I walked the same battlefield in 2018, although we stayed in Niederbronn and then drove through the battlefield to spend the next night at Wissembourg. The view from the top of that artillery tower is astonishing. Did you visit the museum in Woerth?
    https://stracmark.blogspot.com/2018/08/news-from-front-3.html

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  7. Thanks Mark - nice to hear from you - am reading your book at the moment. Didn't have time unfortunately - we really did only have 90 minutes. We had driven from Amiens that morning and were driving to Salzburg the next day and had a reservation for dinner at the hotel - really was a flying visit! Very informative though and am looking forward to going back next year. Is Wissembourg worth a visit ?

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